When you arrive home with your puppy, remember - your puppy is a baby Pitbull. Like all babies, he needs lots of love and cuddling, lots of rest and sleep, lots of love and cuddling, lots of good, nourishing food and more love and cuddling.
Moving to a new home, leaving his dam and litter mates and the only humans he has ever really known is a very traumatic experience for the puppy, so try to make the move as easy as possible for him. For the first couple of weeks, try to change his life as little as possible.
Follow the breeders feeding routine. The same times, the same amount, the same brand of food, the same supplements. Feed him in the same place at each meal. Be sure he has a special area all his own for his bed. Give him lots and lots of cuddling and petting. Do not let him play so long and hard that he becomes exhausted.
Sometime during the first week, you should take him to your veterinarian for a check up and get to know you visit. Take along the record of his immunizations and wormings and a stool sample.
Once the puppy is settled securely into his new home, you can hegin 10 introduce him to your way of doing things.
if you want to change the brand of puppy kibble he is eating, the change should be slow and gradual. Substitute a small amount of the old food with the new brand and slowly increase the ratio of new to old until the old brand is completely replaced with the new.
Equipment
A rocking chair or a really comfortable big chair you can sit in and cuddle your new Pitbull puppy.
A food dish with straight sides and flat bottom. The best material is stainless steel - avoid plastic.
A water dish, stainless steel is best.
A collar and a lead. A light weight, small link "choke" collar is best. It should be long enough to slip ovr tlie pup's head with room to spare but should not have more than a six inch "tail" when around his neck. His first lead should be a light weight one, you'll need a strong leather lead as he grows.
Nail clippers or grinder.
There are several things which will make life easier and more enjoyable for you and your Pitbull.
First in importance is a wire crate. This comes very close to being a necessity. It is much easier to house train a puppy if he sleeps in a crate. If you travel at all with your dog, he is safer and happier riding in a crate and if you are staying overnight he has a place of his own to sleep in. It is just as important for your dog to be in a crate in the car as it is for you to wear your seat belt. If you do not have a crate, or one won't fit in your car, get him a dog safety car harness. Pitbulls do better in wire crates than the Veri-Kennel type because the air circulation through the wire crates is so much better. Dogs like to have a special "my place" so If you don't have a crate, try one, you and your Pitbull will like it.
A puppy pen. Even though you have a fenced yard, you may want to confine the puppy to or out of a particular area. Puppy pens are easily portable and very handy for keeping a puppy confined to a small area. They are especially useful for a winter puppy. You can put his bed in his crate, put the crate in a puppy pen, and put his papers in a corner of the pen.
If you plan to exhibit your Pitbull you will need a pair of whisker scissors. These are small, sharp, blunt end scissors which you can purchase from a pet store, a dog show vendor or a dog supply catalogue.
A good brush. You can use almost any brush on a Pitbull but the best ones have flexible rubber bristles. You want one small enough to fit your hand comfortably.
If you travel with your Pitbull you'll need a large insulated water jug so that you'll have "home" water available for him. A small water pan that hooks to the side of his crate is handy.
Toys
Never ever give your Pitbull a rawhide toy. Even Pitbull puppies can tear a piece off the rawhide and choke on it.
Puppies like knotted socks to shake and play tug of war with. They also like Nylabone and Gummabone toys. Many like to play with balls, but be sure the ball is too big to lodge in the throat. They like cotton tug toys like Booda Bones. Some Pitbullgers give their puppies and dogs Choo-Hooves and the dogs really like them, but be cautious with these. They are an "only when I can watch you" toy. The only real difference between the toys for a puppy and the toys for an adult Pitbull is size. The puppy gels a fairly small Gummabone, (he adult gets a big one. Just be sure the toy is too big to swallow. Throw a Nyla or Gummabone etc. away before it gets so small the dog can get the entire piece in its mouth.
Feeding
Most Pitbullgers use stainless steel because it lasts longer. Do not use plastic either for his food or his water.
Most breeders feed a two to four month old puppy four times a day. At this age the kibble is usually softened with warm water. Some add cottage cheese and/or yogurt. There are several good brands of puppy kibble. If you are not satisfied with the kibble he is eating, try another. You want a kibble the puppy likes and which produces a nice coat, keeps the puppy round but not obese, and produces solid stools. Most breeders in this area use Nutro's, Iam's, Eukanuba, Purina Puppy Chow or Science Diet. Check the list of ingredients on the sack. Do not feed your Pitbull a kibble which contains soybeans.
You may feed the puppy on a set schedule, or have food available to him at all times. The pup will flourish under either regimen. The choice depends on which is more convenient for you.
How much you feed him depends on the puppy. If the puppy does become obese, you may need to regulate the amount he eats, but do not put a growing puppy on a severely restricted diet unless it is supervised by a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about Pitbull puppies.
From four to six months a puppy's feeding regimen should remain the same but the number of feedings may be reduced to three. At about six months this number can be reduced to two. In most cases continue feeding the puppy as much as he wants.
How often you feed a dog a year or more old depends on your preference and the dog's. Most dogs do well on one meal a day. Some do better on two meals a day. You may prefer to feed in the morning or the evening. This is up to you. If you like it and the dog likes it, it's the right way.
A Pitbull usually eats puppy kibble until it is at least a year old. Most Pitbulls are changed from puppy to adult kibble at around twelve to eighteen months. The best change is to the adult version of the puppy kibble you have been feeding him. Ii does not hurt your Pitbull to change from one brand of dog food to another and then to another and so on as long as each change is done by gradually, substituting more and more of the new brand for the old.
If your Pitbull is spayed or neutered or as it ages and becomes less active, you may need to start feeding a reduced calorie dog food to keep it from becoming too fat. Most good brands of dog food have such a kibble. Again, it's best if you stay with the same brand you've been feeding and change to the "lo-fat" version.
Whatever its age, your Pitbull should have fresh water available at all times.
It is not really necessary to add to a good kibble. But you may find your dog prefers "goodies" on his food, or does a little better with some. The most common supplements are cottage cheese, yogurt and oil. Cottage cheese is especially good for growing puppies since the Pitbull must grow a lot of heavy bone in a short time. About a tablespoon per feeding. Yogurt helps to keep the digestive system working well, about a teaspoon per feeding. Oil helps to keep the coat and skin in good condition, about a teaspoon twice a day. Corn or canola oil is best - do not give your Pitbull any oil which contains soybean oil.
You may also give your Pitbull a vitamin supplement. Any good vitamin tablet such as Vita-Tabs, Theralin, etc. Do not over dose. If the directions say "one a day", two is not better. You rnay also give a vitamin C tablet 100 - 500 units per day. Supplements to be very careful about are Vitamins E, D and A. Overdoses of these can cause trouble. Also be very cautious about adding more calcium than what about a quarter cup of cottage cheese per day adds to what is in the kibble. If you plan to breed a bitch, vitamin B complex, including folic acid, is recommended, but again be careful not to overdose. Iron supplements should be given with care and caution.
Treats should usually be dog biscuits. It won't hurt your Pitbull to give him an occasional bite of meat, vegetables, fruit, soda crackers, ice cream, etc. etc. But do not give him chocolate or onions.
Grooming
Your Pitbull should be thoroughly brushed at least three times a week. Most Pitbulls love to be brushed. Use a soft bristle or rubber brush. Start at the rear and brush against the hair. After you've brushed the entire dog against the grain, brush it with the grain. Follow this with a good rub down. This will keep his hair shiny and his skin healthy. During shedding time, spring and fall, you may need to brush more often, give more frequent rubdowns. The idea is to remove the dead hair and distribute the natural oils.
Bathing
A Pitbull that receives frequent brushings and rubdowns does not need frequent bathing. Most Pitbullgers bathe their dogs when the dog is dirty - when it obviously needs a bath. Of course, if you are exhibiting your Pitbull he needs a bath before he goes 10 the show. A show dog in the ring should be a squeaky clean dog in the ring.
Where do you bathe a Pitbull? Any place you want to and can! Some Pitbullgers have a big deep sink, some use the bath tub, some use the kitchen sink, in the summer some wash the dog on the lawn. You need a place where you can control the dog, where you can easily control the water supply and where you can rinse the dog thoroughly. It's a good idea, especially with a puppy, to take the dog outside to "do his thing" just before you bathe him.
Gather up all the things you will need before you start. You will need: shampoo, any rinses you plan to use, cotton balls, Q-lips, eye ointment or mineral oil, Vaseline, wash cloth, towels. You will want a mild, no tears shampoo. Most Pitbullgers use a dog shampoo such as Lambert Kay or Groom-Rite. Some use a baby shampoo such as Johnson & Johnson No Tears or Avon Tearless. Most use a special whitening shampoo for white dogs (Lambert Kay Snowy-Coat, Bio Groom Super White, etc.). Many use a special shampoo for red dogs (Ring S Burnished Bronze, etc.). You may on occasion need to use a flea shampoo but since these are quite harsh, don't use one unless you really need to.
Put a couple of drops of mineral oil or a bit of eye ointment in the eyes and place a cotton ball securely in each ear before you wet the dog. Wet the dog thoroughly from just behind the ears to the tips of the toes on his hind feel. Be sure his underside is wet, too, not just the top and sides. Apply the shampoo starting at his neck and working back. Work the shampoo in to be sure you get all the way through his hair to the skin. Pay special attention to his paws (wash between the toes), his tail (clean all around the base), and the genital area. On a bitch, be especially careful to clean the vulva. Wet the wash cloth and use it to dampen the dog's face and ears. Put some shampoo on the washcloth and wash the dog's face. Wash the wrinkles over the nose, on the forehead, around the nose and under the eyes. Wash his nose. Wash his ears, inside and out. Now rinse. Rinse until you are sure every bit of the dog, especially in the wrinkles and tight places, is thoroughly rinsed and there is no shampoo any place. If you are applying a rinse, do it now, following the instructions. You can use a dog conditioner rinse like Oster Creme Rinse, Oster Coat Conditioner or Francodex Oatmeal Creme Rinse, or you can use a "people" conditioner like L'Oreal Creme. For a white dog, you can use a rinse of 4 Tbs. Mrs. Wright's Bluing, I qt. water, 1/4 cup baking soda. Mix enough bluing into the water to get a darkish blue (not black). Pour the bluing mixture over him and work in with your fingertips. Do not rinse. Do not towel dry. Let the dog drip dry. For red dogs, try VOS Henna Conditioner.
Dry the dog with towels. Take the cotton balls out of the dog's ears and clean any wax carefully using a dry Q-Tip or one with a dab of Panalog. Rub a dab of Vaseline onto his nose to help keep ii soft. You can then let him air dry or use a hair dryer to finish the drying. It's best to keep the dog inside until it is completely dry - about two hours.
Nails
Most Pitbulls need their toe nails cut on a regular basis - about every two weeks. The nails should be kept as short as possible. You may use dog nail clippers or an electric grinder. Most Pitbullgers use the clippers, either guillotine or scissors type. Which type you use is up to you, but they should be sharp. When the blade begins to dull, replace it or buy new clippers - dull blades can be painful to the dog.
Each Pitbullger seems to have a different way to clip nails. Find the way that works best for you. The important thing is to be able to control the dog so that you do not hurt it. A grooming table is probably the best way. You can put the dog on the floor and scratch its tummy, or hold it between your legs - whatever works. Be especially careful not to cut into the quick. On white nails you can see where the quick begins. On black nails cut just to the curve of the nail. The clippers usually leave a rough edge. Use a good dog nail file to smooth them off. If you use en electric grinder, be very, very careful. It is easy to grind into the quick.
The main thing is to make the experience as pleasant as possible for the dog so be really careful when cutting nails and don't cut into the quick. If you dog takes frequent walks on pavement or such, it will usually wear the nails down, so again, be careful as there may not be very much nail to cut. This is especially true of black nails which seem to wear more than the white ones.
Fleas
The best way to treat fleas is to prevent them. Some dogs are allergic to flea saliva and can develop really serious skin problems so try to keep the flea population to a minimum. If you do get a bad flea infestation you may need to "bomb" your house or kennel, spray the yard and/or dog runs. Frequent brushing is the first defense. Frequently changed bedding is very important. Flea collars are not very effective and many Pitbulls cannot wear them. If you do use one, do not put one on a wet or damp dog and do not allow the dog to wear a wet collar (this includes letting the dog out in the rain with its flea collar on).
You may need to give the dog a bath with a good flea shampoo or use an anti-flea rinse when you bathe. The chemicals used in these shampoos are harsh so use them only when necessary and follow instructions carefully. Mycodex is probably the most used flea control shampoo. There are various types of dips, such as Adams i4 Day Flea Dip, and sprays, such as Escort Flea & Tick Spray and Mycodex Aqua-Spray. Since these really are medications, it's a good idea to at least begin with ones from your veterinarian or that have been specifically recommended by an experienced Pitbullger in your area. Avon Skin so Soft mixed in the rinse water is an effective, non-irritating flea deterrent used by several Pitbullgers. You can also use the Skin so Soft mixed with an equal part of water in a spray bottle, or, if you feel that's a bit too strong, try two capfuls in a pint spray bottle. This is also reported to repel mosquitoes and ticks. Above all else, a clean environment, especially his bed, is the best flea prevention.
Bedding
Bedding material used for Pitbulls ranges from straw or wood shavings (for kennel dogs) to special dog beds of all types and prices. The most common is cotton rugs or blankets which can be washed with ease. Don't pamper your Pitbull with a wicker dog bed. He will thoroughly enjoy reducing it to twigs and it really isn't a good thing for him to eat. The fake sheepskin rugs available from most pet stores and dog catalogues make good beds as they are soft and wash and dry with ease. The important thing for bedding is that it be easily washable and provide a soft nesting area for the dog. As long as it meets that requirement, any bedding will do.
Training
"House" training
The key here is consistency. Take the pup outside, preferably to the same area each time, as soon as he wakes up, about ten minutes after each meal, about every hour when he's awake, just before his nap or night bedtime. The puppy must empty bladder and bowels before he goes to bed for the night. Always praise the puppy as he is going, and move away from the area as soon as he is finished. Very few dogs will soil their beds, so it is best to keep him confined at night and any time you cannot watch him. If you see the pup "hunting" (sniffing and circling) take him outside immediately. If you see him urinating or defecating in the house, say "NO, NO" and take him outside at once. Do not scold him unless you catch him in the act. Praise for correct behavior works much better than punishment for "incorrect" behavior. Remember, a puppy is a baby, his capacity is small, his muscle control limited. Be consistent, be patient, and you will succeed in training him to go outside not inside.
Lead training
The earlier you start the better, but if your puppy has not had any lead training before you get him, wait a week or so until he's settled comfortably into his new home before you begin.
You will need a light weight "choke chain" collar and a light weight lead. The collar should be long enough to slip over his head with ease and have some room for growth, but should not be more than six inches longer than the circumference of his neck. Put the collar on the puppy 50 that it goes over his neck from his left to right. Fasten the lead to the collar and let the puppy lead you around. If he doesn't move, move a bit and coax him to move after you. Do not ever pull on the lead and drag or choke the puppy. This should be a happy experience for the puppy so give him lots of praise. As he becomes used to walking about with the collar and lead, begin to give little tugs and encourage him to follow you rather than you following him. Always keep him on your left side. Keep his lessons short. Several five to ten minutes sessions a day are better than one half hour session. Do not play with the puppy during his lesson, but do praise him often when he follows you.
Once he is following you with consistency you can begin taking him on walks around the neighborhood. You will probably need to give him several gently tugs the first few times to keep him with you rather than exploring on his own. You may need to stop and talk to him a few times. Again, do not pull on the lead and drag or choke him. A quick jerk and immediate release on the collar is the way to control him. Do not try to rush this. A few minutes a day, every day, lots of praise when he does it right, a quick jerk and release to correct when he doesn't, lots of praise, patience and consistency and he will soon be walking nicely at your side. If you plan to exhibit your puppy, you will also need to train him to stand still and let you hold his head. Start this training along with the lead training as early as possible.
Problems and Treatments
The second best medical advice any one can give you is, "Find a veterinarian who knows and likes Pitbulls." This is one of the reasons why it's a good idea to join your local Pitbull Specialty Club. The members can usually refer you to a veterinarian who is familiar with Pitbulls and who likes them. Believe it or not - some veterinarians don't like Pitbulls, and no matter how good a veterinarian lie is, he's not a good one for your Pitbull.
The very best advice is to know your Pitbull. Check the entire dog daily. Know if he isn't eating, if he isn't playing, if he doesn't seem quite right. Know immediately if something is wrong so you can take appropriate action.
There are several minor ailments you can treat at home. Remember that if a home remedy doesn't cure the problem in two days, it's time to take the dog to the veterinarian. Do not keep trying various methods of home medication.
Liquid Medications
The easiest way to give a liquid medication is with a syringe. You can get them from your veterinarian or most drug stores. You want at least a 2cc size. Discard the needle. Pull the proper amount of liquid into the syringe, open the dog's mouth and "shoot" the liquid onto the back of his tongue.
Pills and capsules
Open the dog's mouth, push the pill or capsule as far down his throat as possible, then hold his mouth shut and stroke his throat until he swallows. This has been known to work. Or wrap the pill or capsule in a bit of ground beef or cheese and feed it to the dog. This usually works.
Vomiting
For minor upset stomach Pepto Bismol or a similar medicine works best. Dose is according to the dog's weight. If there is hard vomiting or if the upset lasts more than 24 hours, take the dog to your veterinarian.
Diarrhea
Kaopektate is most usually prescribed for minor diarrhea. Dose amount depends on the dog's weight. If the diarrhea continues longer than 24 hours or if there is blood in the stool, take the dog to the veterinarian.
Hot Spots
These are red, weepy, itchy spots. No one seems to really know what causes them. It could be fleas, food, allergies, etc. Clean the area thoroughly. You can wash with shampoo, rinse and dry. Or clean with Baby Wipes with lanolin and aloe. Or wash with Bigeloil. Then apply a medications such as Panalog, Bag Balm, Sulfadene, Schreiner's Healing Liniment (from a feed store) or 1% cortisone cream (you may need to get this from your own doctor). Clean and apply medication daily. You should see improvement by the second day, if not, take the dog to the veterinarian.
IInterdigital Cysts
This is another problem that no one seems to be sure what the cause is But you'll know one when you see an angry red swelling pop up between the dog's toes. First examine the paw carefully, especially the underside between the pads to be sure there is no foreign matter (a thorn or such). If there is, take it out. Clean the area. Remedies include: (I) Soaking the paw in warm water and Epsom Salts or Massengale Douche solution, dry and rub in Panalog. (2) Desenex foot powder. (3) ,Preparation H. (4) Division 5 Bulletin formula. Have your veterinarian make this up for you One part 60% DMSO, one part Gentavet solution 50 mg. per ml. Apply one drop per day; rub in with a Q Tip. Do NOT use more than one drop, do NOT apply more frequently than once a day. If you start application at the first sign, this solution will prevent the cyst from developing. With all these treatments, it's best to continue the treatment for two to three days after the cyst is gone.
Fungus Spots
These are somewhat like hot spots, but they are not weepy. Be sure you clean away all the "scabby" material. Wash the area and treat with Panalog, Keflex, or any good anti-fungal ointment. You can use Demorex shampoo or a sulfur based soap for the washing.
Facial Acne or Eczema
Pitbulls are forever putting their faces into all kinds of strange places. Some are susceptible to topical bacterial infections. The dog gets pimples on his face and chin. Usually you can clear these up just by washing and rubbing in an anti-biotic ointment. Or you can try OXYIO (benzoil peroxide) which you can purchase at a drug store. If they persist, you will need to get an oral anti-biotic medication from your veterinarian.
Eyes
Dust, wind, pollen, the things that make your eyes burn and water have the same effect on your Pitbull. You can rinse the eyes out with a solution such as Clear Eyes. If the eyes are badly irritated, use a contact lens ointment such as Bausch & Lomb Duolube. For any other eye ailment, take the dog to your veterinarian.
Cherry Eye
The gland which normally resides under the lower eye lid at the inside corner of the eye will sometimes "pop" out. This is not as horrible as it appears to be and does not require emergency treatment. It does require treatment at the earliest possible time by a veterinarian recommended for "Cherry Eye't. The quicker the dog gets treatment the better the chance for successful treatment without removing the gland. Removal of the gland often results in a "dry" eye.
Tail
Some Pitbull's have their tail set in a pocket. If yours does1 you will need to make a special effort to keep that pocket clean and dry. Wipe it out frequently. You may need to use cotton balls rather than a wash cloth if the pocket is tight. Be sure to dry it thoroughly and apply an ointment such as Panalog, or a drying powder.
Temperature
You take his temperature just as you take a small baby's - rectally. Use a good rectal thermometer, lubricate generously with Vaseline, insert gently, hold onto the thermometer dogs have been known to "suck" them in!, wait about five minutes, pull out and read. Normal temperature for most dogs is from 100.5 to 101.
Ice
Start giving your Pitbull pieces of ice to eat when he is still a small puppy so that he learns to like it. Luckily, most Pitbulls do. This is a great way to cool down a hot dog. Blocks of ice make a great summer time toy. A pan of ice in or on top of his crate helps keep him cool.
Insect Stings
If your Pitbull is stung by a bee or other insect, give him Benadryl (either capsule or liquid) and watch him closely for the next half hour. You may also apply an ice pack to the area where he was stung if you know where it is. If the area around the sting swells and hardens, if hives appear, if he seems to have difficulty breathing - rush him to the veterinarian. This is no time to dally, your dog's life depends on quick treatment.
"Ten commandments for a responsible pet owner"
1. My life is likely to last 10-15 years. Any separation from you will be painful.
2. Give me time to understand what you want of me.
3. Place your trust in me.
4. Don't be angry with me for long, and don't lock me up as punishment, you have your work, your friends and your entertainment. I ONLY HAVE YOU.
5. Talk to me. Even if I don't understand the words, I understand your voice when it's speaking to me.
6. Be aware that however you treat me, I'll never forget it.
7. Before you hit me, remember that I have teeth that could easily crush the bones in your hand, but I choose not to.
8. Before you scold me for being lazy or uncooperative, ask yourself if something might be bothering me, perhaps I'm not getting the right food, I've been out in the sun to long, or my heart may be getting old and weak.
9. Take care of me when I get old, You too will grow old.
10. Go with me on difficult journeys. Never say, "I can't bear to watch it" or " let it happen in my absence". Everything is easier for ME If you are there. Remember, I LOVE YOU
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Crate Training your puppy During puppyhood, a dog must learn to feel secure in his environment. An insecure dog leads to problems with house training, a dog that cowers, digs, chews and barks needlessly. Adult dog behavior is shaped during the early stages of puppyhood. Many dogs are placed in shelters or end up on the streets as a result of poor training on the owner's part. Dogs need proper training and direction. Most problems with dogs can be prevented if proper direction is taken from the beginning. Invest a little of your time now and and it will result in a lifetime of enjoyment for you and your canine companion. Dogs are pack animals by nature and prefer a dark, small, den-like atmosphere as opposed to a huge open room that we humans would enjoy. Dog crates are simply a rectangular structure just big enough for the dog to lay down in. They should NOT be large enough for the dog to play in. The natural tendency to stay clean is basic instinct. The crate becomes the den that humans took away when we domesticated dogs thousands of years ago. Crates are primarily used for house breaking puppies. But may also be used to train/re-train adult dogs as well. Crates are not cruel by any stretch of the imagination. It's like an indoor den for you companion. Crates should NOT be used for long term confinement. More than 10 hours for any dog is too long to remain in a crate without being able to relieve themself. Once a schedule is set, dogs usually have a admirable ability to "hold it". This must be gradualy worked up to through proper training from puppy hood. THE FIRST STEP When you bring your new pupster home, you should already have his/her crate set up with newspapers or a soft rug or towel. If your new pupster is younger than 10 weeks when you bring him home I suggest placing an exercise pen around the crate. This will give him the advantage of not being shut up in the crate at an early stage for long periods of time. Puppies urinate immediately after waking up from a nap and defecate after every meal. This is EVERY time! Once they begin to mature, the length of time between urges "to go" become longer in length. (Usually around 10-14 weeks). At this stage they become ready to stay in their crates all day while you are at work and all night while you sleep. I will keep a toy or two in the crate but I don't keep food or water as this will create a huge mess. As soon as they eat and drink they will need "to go" and if you are not home to let them out you'll be real sorry and they will be real upset. It will also inadvertantly teach them "to go" in the crate. Puppies learn quickly not to relieve themselves in their den/crate. I keep thick layers of newspapers in the crate for the first month or so. Depending on how young the puppy is, it will more than likely urinate in the crate because he just can't "hold it" as long as an older dog. If the puppy is fed and watered and taken outside before being crated you will have a much cleaner and happier puppy when you return home. Puppies grow very fast and usually within a month you can remove the papers from the crate and replace it with a soft rug or towel. I usually have two crates per new puppy. One in the family room and one in my bedroom. Puppies should NOT be isolated just because they are in a crate. During the day when you can't watch every move the new puppy makes he can be in the crate in the family room. But at night he will want to be with you for a secure feeling. And when he awakes in the night and needs to go out you will hear him if he's in your bedroom. When you sleep, your puppy should be in his crate with the door closed. He will wake you when the urge strikes. You need to take him out right then and there to further the crate training purpose. Your puppy will learn what you teach him. If you ignore the persistent crying to go out to relieve himself you will defeat the purpose of crating your puppy altogether. Puppies mature quickly and he will not have to get up in the middle of the night forever. NEVER scold your pupster for soiling his crate. Shame on you for not getting him out when he asked!! Again, dogs are clean by nature and left to their own devices would leave the den to relieve themselves. Always, Always praise your puppy EVERY time he "goes" outside. IF he does soil the crate, just get the puppy outside to finish his business, give him LOTS of praise, clean the crate, put the puppy back in the crate and go back to sleep. Once your puppy has matured and is past the house-breaking period you may start to leave him out for longer periods. But you will want to continue the crating when you are away or cannot watch everything your puppy is doing for a while longer. Teething can be dangerous as well as costly if the puppy is allowed to be loose all the time. My new puppies are crated until they are totally trustworthy and understand what is allowed and what is not. This might be 6 months or it might be 2 years. Each dog is an individual and requires individual training. Once I am SURE the dog is trustworthy then I start leaving them out when I am away for short periods at a time. As long as everything is in tact when I return the next time will be a little longer. Eventually your dog will be able to be loose in the house all the time if you so desire. |
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Dog and Puppy Biting, Mouthing, Teething Biting and mouthing is common in young puppies and dogs especially in play and while teething. It's up to you to teach your puppy or dog what is acceptable and what is not. Inhibit Biting Socialization Prevents Biting Lack of Socialization Causes Biting Trust and Respect Inhibits Biting Use of Reprimands and Biting |
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House Training a Puppy What To Expect During the House Training Process House Training When You Are Not Home Passive House Training or Paper Training House Training When You Are Home Active House Training Key to Successful House Training |
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Obedience Training Your Dog or Puppy: How and Why Obedience training is one of the best things you can do for your dog or puppy and yourself. Obedience training doesn't solve all behavior problems, but it is the foundation for solving just about any problem. Training opens up a line of communication between you and your dog. Effective communication is necessary to instruct your dog about what you want her to do. You can teach her anything from 'stay' (don't bolt out the door) to 'sit' (don't jump up on the visitors) to 'off' (don't chew the furniture). Obedience training is also an easy way to establish the social hierarchy. When your dog obeys a simple request of 'come here, sit,' she is showing compliance and respect for you. It is NOT necessary to establish yourself as top dog or leader of the pack by using extreme measures such as the so-called alpha roll-over. You CAN teach your dog her subordinate role by teaching her to show submission to you in a paw raise (shake hands), roll over or hand lick (give a kiss). Most dogs love performing these tricks (obedience commands) for you which also pleasantly acknowledge that you are in charge. Obedience training should be fun and rewarding for you and your dog. It can enrich your relationship and make living together more enjoyable. A well-trained dog is more confident and can more safely be allowed a greater amount of freedom than an untrained one. A trained dog will come when called. Some people debate whether or not it is possible to train puppies, and others ask whether it is possible to teach an old dog new tricks. The answer to both questions is an unequivocal YES. Whatever the age of your dog, the right time to begin training is right now! The most important time in your dog's life is right now. Your dog's behavior is constantly changing. A dog that is well-behaved today will not necessarily remain that way forever. New problems can always develop. Existing problems can always get worse. Enroll in a local dog obedience training class to learn the basics. Then most teaching and training can and should be done in your home. It is best to begin training in an area that is familiar to your dog and with the least amount of distractions as possible. When you feel both you and your dog are skilled at several obedience commands, then take these commands to different areas. Introducing distractions may seem like starting all over again, but it's worth the effort. In reality, who cares if your dog will sit stay when no one is around? What you need is a dog who will sit-stay when company is at the door. Who cares if your dog heels beautifully in your own back yard? But you need to start there if you eventually want a dog who will heel beautifully when walking down Union Street. If you want your dog to be obedient in your car, guess where you have to practice? If you suddenly want your dog to down-stay while you are trying to move over 3 lanes to make an exit, you had better find time to practice those obedience commands in the car long before you need them. Don't drive and practice at the same time. Practice while the car is parked or while someone else is driving. Keep the obedience training sessions short and sweet. It is dull and boring to schedule tedious and lengthy training sessions. Instead, integrate training into your daily routine. Make obedience training interesting and meaningful to your dog. If Puppy insists on following you from room to room while you are getting ready for the day, then insist he have something to do too. "Roll over" for your wake-up greeting. "Heel" from the bedroom to the bathroom. "Down-stay" while you're brushing your teeth. "Heel" from the bathroom to the kitchen. "Sit-stay" while grinding the coffee beans. "Go find the ball" while you get dressed. Now "go get the leash" so you can go for a walk. "Sit" when the door is opened, "sit" again when the door is closed. And so on. Be sure that obedience training infiltrates your dog's favorite activities and that your dog's favorite activities infiltrates training. Your dog's favorite activities should become training, so that training becomes the dog's favorite activity. Rewards While Training Reprimands While Training |
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Jumping Up The Jumping Problem Continues The End of the Jumping Problem |
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How to Handle Dog Barking Barking is a perfectly natural canine behavior. Birds sing; frogs croak; and a dog barks, whines and howls. If you have a dog, you better expect some barking, whining or howling. It is unrealistic and unfair to think you can train your dog to stop barking altogether. However, you, your neighbors and your dog will all be much happier if the barking is under control. Dogs who are socially isolated or confined for long periods without supervised exercise need some outlet for their pent-up energy. A dog who is left alone all day is likely to take up barking as a hobby because no one is there to control him. In no time at all, barking becomes an enjoyable habit. And for many dogs, once they start barking, they tend to continue barking for the sheer fun of it. Your dog may be barking excessively because you unintentionally trained her to do so. Poochie speaks and you obey. "Woof" and you open the door to let puppy out. "Woof" and you open it again to let her in. "Woof" and she gets a treat, "woof" for a tummy-rub . . . you get the picture. Your dog has learned to get attention through barking. It is easy to fall into this trap because the very nature of barking gets your attention. For the same reason, it is easy to forget to praise and reward your dog when she is not barking.
Obedience training is great mental exercise. Thinking is a tiring activity for dogs, as it is for humans. Most dogs really enjoy a rapid paced, exciting "game" of Come here, sit, heel, sit, heel, down, stay . . . come here for hugs, a massage, a celebration of praise and treats. Don't allow training to be a boring, tedious routine. If your dog lives in the back yard most of the time, she probably needs "social exercise." She needs walks around the neighborhood, so she can investigate all the sounds and smells that tantalize her while she is in the yard. Bring her into the house when you are home. She needs to feel that she is part of your family. Having a large yard is not equal to having a well exercised dog. You may see your dog dashing madly around your yard, but he is not exercising. He is doing the doggy equivalent of pacing, fidgeting, or other human forms of nervous activity. Provide your dog with fun things with which to occupy himself, such as a digging pit or special chew toys. Dogs are social animals. They need friends and companionship. Take your dog to the same dog park daily or weekly and let her make doggy friends. Dogs romping around and playing together tire rapidly and will sleep happily while recovering from the good, hardy play session.
In order to help your dog know your rules, teach him what they are. Here is a good rule to start with: Barking is OK until the dog is told to "Stop Barking." Think of "Stop Barking" as an obedience command rather that simply an unpredictable reprimand. Each time your dog barks, after two or three woofs, praise her for sounding the alarm. Then tell her, "Stop Barking." Simultaneously, waggle an especially tasty food treat in front of her nose. Most dogs instantly stop barking because they can't sniff and lick the treat while barking. During this quiet time praise her continuously - - "Good girl, stop barking, what a good quiet dog you are, good dog . . ." After 3 seconds of no barking, let her have the treat. The next time she barks, require her to stop barking for 5 seconds before she gets the treat. Each time she is told to stop barking and succeeds, she will be rewarded. If she barks even one little wooflet after you've given the command, scold her immediately. Timing is everything. As training proceeds, the required period of silence is increased gradually; at first "Stop Barking" means: No barking for the next 3 seconds, then 5 seconds, then 10 seconds and so on. Within a single training session, you can teach your dog to stop barking for up to 1 or 2 minutes. This is major progress, because whatever set off her barking in the first place is history, and she is likely to be quiet until the next disturbance.
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Socialization Tips and Puppy Training Pointers Puppy Socialization Socialization Do's -Invite friendly, healthy, vaccinated dogs, puppies and even cats to your home to meet and play with your new puppy. Take your puppy to the homes of these pets, preferably with dog-friendly cats. -Carry your pup to shopping centers, parks, school playgrounds, etc; places where there are crowds of people and plenty of activity. -Take your puppy for short, frequent rides in the car. Stop the car and let your puppy watch the world go by through the window. -Introduce your puppy to umbrellas, bags, boxes, the vacuum cleaner, etc. Encourage your puppy to explore and investigate his environment. -Get your puppy accustomed to seeing different and unfamiliar objects by creating your own. Set a chair upside down. Lay the trash can (empty) on its side, set up the ironing board right-side up one day and upside down the next day. -Introduce your puppy to new and various sounds. Loud, obnoxious sounds should be introduced from a distance and gradually brought closer. -Accustom your puppy to being brushed, bathed, inspected, having its nails clipped, teeth and ears cleaned and all the routines of grooming and physical examination. -Introduce your puppy to stairs, his own collar and leash. Introduce anything and everything you want your puppy to be comfortable with and around. Socialization Don'ts -Do not allow the experience to be harmful, painful or excessively frightening. This can cause lifetime phobias in your dog. -Do not force or rush your puppy. Let your puppy take things at his own pace. Your job is to provide the opportunity. -Do not do too much at one time. Young puppies need a lot of sleep and tire quickly. It is much more productive to have frequent and very brief exposures than occasional prolonged exposures. -DO NOT WAIT!! Every day that goes by is an opportunity of a lifetime that is lost forever. You can never get these days back. If socialization does not happen now, it never will.
THESE HELPFUL TRAINING TIP'S IT SHOULD HELP YOU AND YOUR BULLY GET OFF TO A GREAT START." JUST REMEMBER PATIENCE AND SPENDING LOTS OF TIME TRAINING YOUR PUP WILL PAY OFF IN YOUR BULLIES ADULTHOOD", K.T "SCBK" | ||||||||||||||
Why Rules, Boundaries and Limitations are Key The sooner you set rules, boundaries and limitations, the sooner you get to enjoy a healthy, happy, and balanced dog. By Cesar Millan We’ve learned in other lessons that Pitbulls follow calm, assertive leaders. The pack leader, the mother or the male, embodies calm, assertive leadership.
Pit Bulls communicate through energy at every moment. The pack leader projects calm, assertive energy and the rest of the pack responds with calm, submissive energy. This is how the pack achieves balance. From the moment puppies are born, the mom sets rules, boundaries and limitations. She tells her puppies how far they can go away from the den, when to eat and she walks with them.
The mother also allows the pit bull puppies to share activities with each other. When she wants play to end or just disagrees with what’s going on, she picks up a pitbull puppy and takes him to another spot.
In all of these ways the mom sets rules, boundaries and limitations and in doing so nurtures her puppy’s healthy state of mind. As adults, pitbulls look to their pack leader to set these rules. Understand the Animal in the Dog If you are to understand the animal in the dog you must forget human psychology when dealing with your canine. Mother Nature created pack dynamics to guide the development and adult lives of dogs. Dogs become unstable when they live with us and lack a calm, assertive pack leader. Humans have the power to understand pack dynamics and we possess the ability to replicate pack dynamics. By doing so, we connect with our dogs on a primal level. The key to this is you as pack leader. To achieve this you must duplicate the action and attitude of a canine pack leader. Set and enforce rules, boundaries and limitations in a calm, assertive and consistent way. Feed your dog after his mind reaches a calm, submissive state and never reward unstable behavior. Walk with him every day like his canine pack leader would. And only share affection after projecting the calm, assertive leadership that Nature has intended your dog to follow.
Start Early, Start Young People ask me when they should start setting rules, boundaries and limitations. The answer is now! Most people get a pitbull puppy and wait to teach him rules, boundaries or limitations until six months or one year old. Meanwhile, the pitbull puppy is teaching you rules, boundaries and limitations. At this point rehabilitation is required because you will have to regain the position you lost a long time ago. So start now – the sooner you set rules, boundaries and limitations, the sooner you get to enjoy a healthy, happy, and balanced dog.
How to Let Your Dog be a Dog
Dogs are animals, with needs that were created by Nature long ago. By Cesar Millan
Many clients I work with are surprised to learn that pitbull dogs don’t need love and affection to lead healthy, balanced lives. Why do my smart, educated clients make this mistake? Because they forget that dogs are animals, with animal needs set by Nature long before humans got involved. What dogs really need is a calm, assertive pack leader – not birthday parties, cute outfits or constant affection. Since most pitbull dogs are born into the follower role that means your dog is looking to you to provide the calm, assertive leadership that he’s hard-wired to seek. But humans often develop a different plan for our dogs. We want to make them our babies or our family. When people see a nervous or shy dog they see it as human and console it like they would another human. In the animal world this nurtures instability, something a pack leader would never do. Most dogs that live in this country have shelter, food, and lots of love. These are the dogs that often become unstable because they’re not working for food and water. These dogs yearn for a pack leader to allow them to feel balanced and connected. Wanted: Leadership You know the best gift you can give to your dog? Let your dog be a dog, and become his calm, assertive, consistent leader. Simply put, fulfill him before you fulfill yourself. Establish yourself as his pack leader and watch him blossom in the submissive role that Nature had written for him long ago.
The Food Philosophy Why it's Important for Dogs to Follow Commands Before Eating Domestication means that dogs don’t have to hunt for food, but they still have to work for food. In the animal world, waiting is a part of who they are. Dogs have to wait to eat; they don’t just get a meal by Federal Express. Domestication means that dogs don’t have to hunt for food, but they still have to work for food. When they’re little, puppies work for food by waiting for their mom. This is a form of psychological exercise, and it’s very important for a healthy state of mind. I feed many dogs at the same time with no problems. Dogs that show calm-submissive energy get to eat first, and I won’t feed dogs that show negative behaviors such as aggression or nervousness. I wait until these dogs project calm-submissive energy before they get fed, much like their mom or pack leader would do. Work for Food Before my dogs eat, I take them for a walk. In this way, I ask my dogs to work for food and water. This is a form of waiting, which is psychological exercise that helps nurture a balanced, happy dog. Your morning routine - every morning, not just some of the time - should go like this: Project calm-assertive energy before you give your dog affection. Then walk your dog to exercise her body and allow her to explore the world. When you get home, prepare her food. While you fill the bowl, ask your dog to sit. If she sits quietly and projects calm-submissive energy with no negative behaviors, place the bowl of food in front of her. Some of my clients think this routine sounds rigid. But from your dog’s perspective, it’s how Nature always intended her to live.
Cesar's Top 10 Summer Tips! With record temperatures around the country, it is important to keep your dogs in mind when it comes to keeping cool. Here is Cesar's Top 10 Tips for beating the summer heat!
1.) Exercise your dog early in the morning or late at night. These are the cooler parts of the day, and this will make the walk more comfortable for both you and your dog. I’m a believer in vigorous exercise for healthy dogs, but this is the time of year to back off on exercise intensity.
2.) Use doggie boots. You can find these at your local pet supply store. If you can’t walk your dog during the early and later hours of the day, this is a good way of protecting it. Heat rises from the ground, especially on surfaces like cement and asphalt, and dogs absorb and release heat through their feet. Just like boots prevent the dog from absorbing the cold in the winter, they also isolate heat.
3.) Watch for signs of dehydration. Dogs can't sweat. They cool off by panting, so an overheated dog will drool excessively. It will become lethargic, its eyes will be bloodshot and it may appear a little pale. If you lift its skin, it will take longer than usual for the skin to fall back into place.
4.) Let your dog check the weather. Dogs don’t have the Weather Channel, so they don’t know why they are being denied a long walk for the day. Allow your dog to step outside and feel for itself that it is too hot, too wet or too cold to go on a long walk. Instinctually, the dog will understand that it has to shorten its walk, or simply come back inside where it’s safe.
5.) Find innovative ways to cool your dog. Don’t have air conditioning? No problem! Find a spot in the shade and set up a kiddie pool. At the Dog Psychology Center, we have misters that spray the dogs with gentle streams of misty water. Lay down a wet towel for your dog to lie on. Or simply set up a fan in front of a pan of ice.
6.) Dogs cool from the bottom up. Make sure to spray the paws and stomach, not just the top of the dog, when spraying it with water. A wet towel does more good on the bottom of your dog than when laid on the top of its coat.
7.) Let your dog dig! Your dog may resort to finding his own way to avoid the heat. Dogs in nature dig their dens not out of frustration but to find food, hide, give birth or keep cool! If it’s possible, locate a shady area where it’s okay for your dog to dig.
8.) Keep your dog hydrated! Different dogs have different needs when battling the heat. Keep in mind that darker coats absorb more heat than lighter coats. Also, overweight dogs will dehydrate faster. Carry a bottle of water when going on a walk with your dog. Better yet have your dog carry it for you in a backpack or a vest! The water in the bottles will keep the dog cooler and also give the dog a sense of purpose.
9.) Never leave your dog in a parked car. The car retains more heat than an open area, even if it is in the shade. Plus, a dog may get overexcited in the car due to passersby or panic from claustrophobia, making dehydration more likely. On longer trips, make sure you have water for the dog and keep the AC running.
10.) Use hot weather as an excuse to swim more often! The best activity you can do in summertime or hot weather is swimming. Instead of walking the dog, take the dog on a swim! If you hold them and allow them to take you around the pool, it becomes a powerful bonding experience for the two of you, similar to the walk.
Behavior Rehabilitation Discovering the Cause of Barking If nuisance barking is a problem, consider these issues to find a solution. Some clients tell me that they love coming home because their dog greets them excitedly by jumping and barking. They feel this proves their dogs love for and bond with the family. But look at a dog in a natural setting; she doesn’t bark and yelp and jump on her pack mates in a burst of affection. So what are my clients’ dogs trying to say? Looking Deeper for Answers Dogs that greet their owners in this way are trying to communicate. But rather than professing undying love, they are probably trying to tell you that they are lonely and bored and that their needs as a dog are not being met. The excitement that you see is your dog’s way of burning off the excess energy that has been building throughout the day. People shouldn’t be disappointed by this revelation. This just means that dogs don’t use emotions like people do. Remember, they’re dogs. To love a dog means you must treat him like an animal, which means fulfilling him as Nature intended him to be fulfilled. Now, let’s get back to our barking dog. So-called nuisance barking, which is often ongoing and not in response to a particular stimulus like a jogger running by the house, is your dog’s way of sending you a distress signal. Somewhere his needs as an animal are not being met. Is his world anchored by a pack leader who projects calm-assertive energy? Are you walking with him every day, which exercises his body and his mind? Is he living a balanced life? If nuisance barking is a problem, consider these issues to find a solution. It’s the best way to show real love for your dog.
Common Feeding Mistakes People Make
Food carries a powerful message in the dog world. By Cesar Millan Feeding provides your dog with nutrition and gives you the opportunity to shape your dog’s behavior.
Don’t Miss Out on the Ritual of Feeding When puppies are little, they wait to be fed by their mother. This waiting is a form of work – psychological work, and it builds a healthy state of mind. Day after day, this ritual plays out among the pack. I take my dogs for a walk before I feed them. This form of waiting provides my dogs with psychological work and builds a healthy mind. The walk also promotes a healthy body and allows my dogs to experience the world.
Don’t Reinforce Negative Behaviors When Feeding Dogs don’t get fed when their mind is excited, nervousness, tense or aggressive. They get fed when their mind is calm and submissive, which is what their animal pack leader would require. Make sure your dog has reached a calm and submissive state before you place the food bowl in front of him. If you feed him when he displays any negative behaviors, such as nerves or excitement, you will reinforce these behaviors and guarantee that they will reoccur. Food carries a powerful message in the dog world. Understanding its meaning and consequences will allow you to connect with your dog and help him to lead a happy, balanced life.
A balanced, healthy nutrition plan is an important part of your pet’s health. Your pet requires a balanced diet that will help to keep him healthy. Pitbulls are unlike humans – the food they eat is the same day to day, as humans are able to choose a variety of different foods day to day. For this reason alone your pitbull needs to meet his nutritional requirements for proteins, vitamins and minerals all in one daily diet.
Practicing a good, healthy diet is not only good for your pitbulls overall health it will also help his skin, hair coat and more. A healthy nutrition plan will help his internal workings to assure your pitbull's optimal health and long life here with you!
Let’s take a look at some of the crucial nutritional values your pit bull's diet should contain on an average:
Vitamins and minerals in small amounts are essential to your pitbull's overall health and well being. Calcium and phosphorus (parts of the bone) sodium (essential part of the of the enzymes system) and iron (component of hemoglobin) are just a few of the many essential vitamins and minerals needed for your pit bull's optimal health and nutrition. Taking the time to assure your pit bull is getting proper nutrition will lead to him having a happier, healthier, longer life!
Protein is another vitamin that is crucial for your pet’s heath. Protein is his source of amino acids which are required for the manufacturing of bones, muscles, hair coat, skin and everything else inside his body. Protein is an essential part of your pit bull's nutritional and diet nutritional needs. Roughly the amount of protein needed in his diet, is 20% in dog food and 30% in cat foods.
Cats are a carnivore which means they require meat protein and also have a higher need of protein intake in general than dogs. Pit bulls and dogs are omnivores like humans, which makes them able to use both meat and vegetables to balance their nutritional intake. In fact, dogs can do well on a properly balanced vegetarian diet whereas a cat might not due as well since they require more overall protein intake.
Fiber (derived from plants) is also an essential part to a balanced diet. Fiber is the indigestible substance found in food. Minimal amounts of fiber are essential for proper food digestion. Without proper fiber intake in your pet’s diet, he would suffer from diarrhea which could then result in more potential health problems and risks.
Many of the poor quality pet foods include a higher amount of fiber than most pet foods because it’s cheaper for the company to manufacture. The proper amount of fiber will mean less pooper scooping for you, the pet owner!
Dietary fat supplies are most of the body’s caloric requirements as well as essential fatty acids. In fact “fat” is the most expensive of ingredients that are found in pet foods. It is for this reason that that some of the lower pried dog food companies skimp on the quality and quantity of fats contained within the pet foods. Inadequate, poor quality fats will result in your pet having poor skin and coat health which could possible lead to more serious health concerns. There are some dog food manufacturers that add extra essential fatty acids to their food to promote healthy skin and coat – this is the food you should try and feed to your pitbull!
And there you have it, the basics to helping your pitbull avoid long term health problems and risks that may arise due to poor nutrition and eating habits. We hope these basic pet food nutrition tips will encourage you to do your research when picking which pet food is best for your bet. In the end, it will help assure your pets overall health and well being.
One food that we use and will continue to use is Canidae Dog food. It is made from all natural ingredients with no fillers or bi-products. I highly recommend it for pitbulls and any other breed of dogs. For pitbulls specifically, it gives them the nutrition they need to keep up with their active lifestyle.
All Natural and made the CANIDAE® Way with Superior Quality in Every Bag with No Corn, Wheat, Soy, Grain Fractions, Fillers or by products and Naturally Preserved!
CANIDAE® All Life Stage formula is formulated to meet the AAFCO Dog Nutrient Profiles for all life stages.
Benefits
Four Human Grade Meats – Chicken, Turkey, Lamb and Fish 10 Natural Skin & Coat Conditioners Balanced Omega 6 & 3 Fatty Acids Digestive Enzymes, Probiotics and Superior Digestibility Guaranteed Enzyme Activity Antioxidant Vitamins & Amino Acid Chelated Minerals Excellent for Problem Skin & Allergies Holistic & Herbal Benefits Formulated for All Life Stages – Puppies, Adults, Seniors & Overweight Excellent Palatability - Dogs Love CANIDAE®
Visit Canidae's website to find a store near you and get your Pitbull on a great diet today!
Collar-and-Leash Tips for Mastering the Walk
Many dog owners have trouble controlling thier dogs on walks, particularly larger dogs, some of which weigh more than their owners! This may seem like an impossible challenge, but it's really as simple as using your leash and collar correctly.
You always want to exit the house FIRST. Do not exit your home or yard until your dog is sitting in a calm state. When the dog exits your home first the dog thinks that they are in charge. Always make sure your dog is walking right beside, or behind you. If they try to pull in front of you, correct them with a tug to the side and stop walking. Don't start again until they are calm and sitting. This will let your dog know who the pack leader is and keep them from getting out of hand.
1. Remember, the strongest area of a dog's neck is the lower part, so don't leash there. If you watch an Alaskan sled dog pulling a load, you'll see that the harness fits low, around the base of the neck, at the shoulder. That's because the lower part is where the dog has the most control, and where all the pulling strength of the dog is concentrated. But on a walk, having the collar on this lower part is detrimental; doing so actually facilitates your dog's ability to pull you around, which is exactly what you don't want.
2. Instead, attach the leash to the very top of the neck. This is the most sensitive part, so it takes very little effort to communicate, guide, and correct your dog from here. Holding the leash in that position also raises your dog's nose away from the ground, redirecting him from distractions, and creates a more positive learning experience and a more natural way for the dog to give you control on the walk. Always, of course, keep your dog's safety in mind when giving corrections.
3. Let the tools help you. As I say on my show Dog Wisperer, a simple leash and collar can do the trick. However, for those who have trouble keeping the collar in the correct place, you may want to tie the leash higher up on the dogs head. That way you can control your pitbull better during walks.
WEIGHT PULLING INFORMATION FOR YOUR DOG
Weight pulling, done well, is a fantastic outlet for the competitive spirit of bulldogs and their owners. In the winner's circle, the pit bull's will to win and desire to please has catapulted the breed over traditional Northern breeds bred for sledge pulling!
Several organizations hold weight pulls open to pit bulls. But only the International Weight Pull Association (IWPA) and the American Pull Alliance (APA) allow ALL pit bulls (meaning rescue dogs, mixed breeds and other animals without registration papers) to compete. The UKC, the CKC, NCC, AAPA and the ADBA - American Dog Breeders Association all offer weight pulls, but dogs must be registered with their organization. In some they cannot even be spayed or neutered.
IWPA trials are well thought out with safety factors like no pulls during the summer heat, and a minimum age of 12 months for pulling dogs. In my opinion, all the other organizations leave much to be desired. Some offer very "easy" titles (some you can earn at just one pull), some allow handlers to continue to pull dogs, over and over, that want to quit. Most allow "baiting" which is unsafe, some even allow young puppies and adolescent dogs to pull, which is completely irresponsible and shows no regard for the safety and health of the animals.
At an IWPA pull, each dog is harnessed and hooked to a cart (or sled in the snow) upon which increasing increments of weight are added. Each dog has 60 seconds to pull the load 16 feet without the handler touching the dog or crossing a line which is in front of the dog. Dogs cannot be "baited". The dog that pulls the most weight across the line (in the fastest time in case of a tie) wins. Dogs can earn three titles, the Working Dog (WD) for pulling 12 times their body weight at four different pulls. The Working Dog Excellent (WDX) for pulling 18 times their body weight at four different pulls, and the Working Dog Superior (WDS) for pulling 23 times their body weight at three different pulls. Dogs can also compete for regional and national ranking.
Some organizations allow the dog to pull on a platform of carpet, while the cart rides on metal rails. This allows for much higher weights than when the cart and dog are on the same surface. Because each pull offers a different surface and conditions, pull weights cannot be compared from pull to pull.
A game pit bull loves to work, and will do so without any force.
Weight pull is a sport for those who want to do something with their dog that doesn't involve tiny leashes, points for color, or special "paper's" and who love to work with their dog to achieve a goal. If that's you, then weight pull may be your thing. While Pit Bull's are excellent at weight pull it's not for everyone or for every dog. Training a dog in weight pull takes time, dedication, money, and if you're like me and live in an area with very few, if any pulling events you'll have to travel out of town to events. Which again costs money and time.
I don't want to turn you off to the idea of getting involved though. I just thought it fair that you know before hand some of the sacrifices that will be made.
Weight pull is a fun and exciting way to meet other Pit Bull owner's as well. Your dog is also meeting new doggy friends and getting some great socialization to boot. Weight pull can also be a rewarding experience as it takes dedication to really excel at the sport.
What exactly is a weight pull? Pulls are held on three different types of terrain. Snow, dirt and rail.
For dirt, a cart with four wheels, and a rail system is set up on rails with the cart on them. Rails is where you see monster weights over 6,000 pounds being pulled. Record weights can reach 8,000 lbs. Whether the dog is on snow, dirt, or rail the distance is usually 16 feet (the ADBA is 15 feet). Dogs are required to pull the weight the distance in 60 seconds or without fail. Once 60 seconds is up and the dog hasn't completed the distance the pull is over and the dog is allowed to complete the pull with help. Different organizations have different rules as well. For example, the IWPA and the UKC do not allow "baiting" while the ADBA does. Baiting is using something to lure the dog to you, like their favorite toy or treats. All three organizations state you can not touch your dog in any manner while pulling and physical corrections are also penalized.
So is weight pull right for you? Only one way to find out, contact the International Weight Pull Association and see if you can find a pull in your area. Go to the pull, experience it, and afterward you'll have a pretty good idea if it's for you and your dog or not. If your dog is registered with the UKC and/or the ADBA you can also contact them. Most people that I know with Pit Bulls in weight pull prefer the IWPA because they are an exclusive pulling club and have high quality events. Weight pull is a wonderful sport for Pit Bulls to display their physical and mental strength. Before you get involved you should make sure you know where to go, what equipment you will need and the training involved.
Let's start with Weight Pull Organizations Two established organizations that hold weight pull events are the United Kennel Club and the International Weight Pull Association. Both organizations offer quality events and have the experience to set up nice pulls with good turn outs. The IWPA is a weight pull specific organization and is widely popular among dog owners who are involved in weight pull.
The types of pulls you will encounter are:
1. Track pulls. These pulls use a track and wheel system. This is where you will see massive amounts of weight being pulled.
2. Cart pull. These pulls use a wheeled cart and while the weights are lower than track pulls they are still quite impressive.
3. Sled pulls. The most difficult of the pulls are sled pulls.
These pulls are held on dirt or snow and use a sled to hold the weights.
The UKC and IWPA mostly use cart and sled pulls during their pull events. This requires your dog to have Superior strength and drive in order to successfully pull the weight.
How Weight Pulls Work Your dog will be required to pull the weight 16 feet and you are not allowed to bait (encourage with food or a toy) or touch the dog while the dog is pulling.
You can encourage the dog from the finish line or drive the dog by walking to the side and behind them while encouraging them to pull the weight.
Your dog has one minute to complete the pull. If they do not pull the weight helpers will come out and assist the dog so they succeed. You do not score any points if the dog needs help. The dog that pulls the most weight according to their size wins the pull.
Using this system you will see big dogs lose to little dogs because the little dog pulled more weight compared to their size in open pulls. Both organizations offer pulls for specific breeds.
The most popular breeds used are:
1. American Pit Bull Terriers
2. American Bulldogs
3. Malamutes
4. Rottweilers
But other breeds like Cocker Spaniels and Poodles also get involved in weight pull.
Important Equipment You Will Need
Having a good weight pull harness is the key here. Weight pull harnesses are designed for weight pull and come with a "brace" bar that will help stretch out the harness to pull the weight.
You can get these harnesses online by doing a search for them using your favorite search engine. Training Your Pit Bull for Weight Pull Experts advise against getting young dogs started in weight pull and recommend you start when the dog is 18-24 months old. Starting at this age gives your dog time to fully grow so they won't injure their joints, muscles or ligaments. You will find two camps in the training department. One camp suggests that you start out by having your dog pull light weights while working and the other camp suggests that you start training with light weights using the rules, distance and set up that you would encounter at a pull. Having your dog pull the light weight 16 feet exactly as they would if they were compete ting. Whatever camp you want to start in you should get some professional help or find a person who has been doing weight pull with the UKC or the IWPA for a while and ask them questions. Weight pull offers a great way to get outdoors and get some exercise with your dog while giving your dog a job to do.
In the end, it's a unique sport for unique canines and owners that enjoy the competition and excitement of a successful pull.